Dry-aged squab, before and after. This is the type of debauchery that happens near the end of The Restaurant at Meadowood’s $500 counter meal. Most of the 22-course meal is vegetable-heavy, but chef Christopher Kostow indulges diners with about four protein-rich courses before dessert. This is one of them.
The birds are hung for 2-3 weeks, then roasted over coals and applewood. On the plate we have tart blackberries, tiny radishes confited in squab fat, and a puree of squab liver. The flavor is quite clean, quite neutral for a squab. The texture is achingly tender from dry-aging. The skin is crispy as Pekin duck. And a scattering of rose geraniums anoint the whole affair with tiny bursts of floral pungency. Gorgeous stuff.