1. Empellon Cocina: Shortrib pastramic tacos with pickled cabbage and mustard seed salsa. Analysis: not enough pepper to qualify as pastrami, but still, a heck of a lot of flavor, so my criticism is only a taxonomic one. It’s a corned beef taco and it’s bangin. Cost: $16 for two tacos. Rating: BUY. Check out the menu.

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    The Importance of Small Plates: Alex Stupak’s excellent Empellon Cocina has eliminated entrees (i.e. main courses) in...
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